Raspberry Pi 400: First Impressions

Good Morning from my Robotics Lab! This is Shadow_8472, and today, I am covering the new Raspberry Pi 400 I have. Let’s get started!

The Raspberry Pi 400 is the latest in the Raspberry Pi lineup. Contrary to all its brethren, there will be no aftermarket case for this small computer: the PCB (Printed Circuit Board) has been redesigned to fit inside an official Raspberry Pi keyboard. The specs are comparable to the Pi 4 model B, but with a heat sink built in under the keyboard and a newer CPU with hardware bugfixes, the Pi 400 comes already running a little faster than its Pi 4 siblings.

Unboxing

I made my own Pi 400 kit because I needed some extra peripherals for my other Pi’s, like an extra, longer HDMI to mini HDMI, and a USB C type power switch. I already have a number of SD cards running around, so I don’t need one included.

As I opened the box, I noticed only three USB ports, two blue and one black. I was otherwise using it for a keyboard, so it works out. Still, universal recievers are a thing, and in such a case, a user would be down a port relative to normal operation. Everything else from the sides appears to now be on the back. Note, I am not intimately familiar with the GIPO pins, but there is a bank of them present.

I am, however, familiar with the camera port normally found in the middle of the board, and no such port is apparent anywhere on the case. This is most likely because it’s being marketed more as a desktop on the go, though the educational/experimental reasons for owning one are still present.

LibreELEC

One of the immediate reasons we got the Pi 400 was so we could have our entertainment system with a keyboard. (For those keeping record, the HDMI by the USB C power port is the HDMI LibreELEC wants.) Eventually, I want to rig an IR sensor to respond to a TV remote and I can pull the Pi 400 in favor of a regular Pi 4.

But the problems start here. It’s a small complaint, but the time isn’t quite right. No matter where I look, there’s no place to set the time manually. It wants an Internet connection, and when I looked into it, it was if the operating system –which was fine on a regular Pi 4– didn’t see the Wi-Fi circuitry.

Debugging

I’m disappointed I have to write this section, but I put my Manjaro card in for easier terminal access, and it doesn’t show up no matter how many commands I try under advisement. With such a new computer on the market, the first help forum topics are still being written.

What is still beyond me is that when I put my Raspian SD in, the thing worked normally. I was able to go online and perform a search. I even pulled up content from SpaceX’s latest fireball, SN 8, fresh that day. The circuitry works, but 2/3 cards say it’s not there.

I’m afraid I was unable to carry on diagnostics past this point. The two cards that didn’t see the wireless were 64 bit, and my Raspian card is 32. I had an image of the lost card (supposedly 64 bit Raspberry OS), so I tried burning it to my last clean micro SD. It took a while to flash, but the Internet worked. getconf LONG_BIT said it was 32 bit though. Same story when I tried downloading a fresh copy of Raspberry OS.

I don’t know if I have a defective unit. What I do know is that any warranty I have is ticking. I’d rather not ship off for a replacement until I’m sure of what’s going on. The closest I saw to these symptoms was maybe something on the Pi 4 jamming its own Wi-Fi somehow. I know I’ve been focusing on 64 vs 32 bit, but my tests could just as easily be official vs 3rd party. My next test should probably be to find a 32 bit 3rd party OS to test. If it doesn’t work, maybe some drivers just need tweaking.

Final Question

I’ll make it simple this time: Where is an official 64 bit OS for the Pi? I believe it exists, but the site led me to believe I was downloading it and not something 32 bit.

Product Review: Off Brand Joystick (PXN-2113 Thunder Pro)

Good Morning from my Robotics Lab! This is Shadow_8472, and today, I am doing another technology review: this time a joystick. Let’s get started!

Kerbal Space Program is a rocket simulator that’s been out for the best part of this past decade. It tackles the the otherwise daunting subject of rocket science and provides a sandbox to explore the subject on an intuitive level, often leading you headlong into thinking about real-life contingencies. As with many other similar games, it provides a highly customizable control scheme, including joysticks.

As with the Steam Controller, I am only familiar with one previous joystick from when I was younger. Any comparisons will be against that one unless where otherwise stated.

Now that it’s been a while since I wrote the last three paragraphs, and the replacement has arrived, I need to actually write the actual review.

Joysticks these days have almost zero competition. If you want a particular shape, your selection will be very narrow. Mine was between the $50 junker I got, and the $30 Logitech 3D Pro. You can find pictures online of both. I didn’t like Logitech’s high-contrast asthetics or its throttle shape, so I went with the more expensive off brand model.

My first in-person impression was the box. Chinese branding covers it. If there’s both English and Chinese, English is given secondary treatment. While I may be a little off put by seeing another language getting preferential treatment, it just means I am not part of the primary target audience, and I have a more understanding attitude if it’s not being sold of a local store shelf.

If boxes could speak as you opened them, this one would say, “Here, I got it here. Be glad it’s in one piece,” whereas the Steam Controller box would have said, “Here, let me be a treasure chest to keep your new friend safe.” (note: I do not consider the Steam Controller a friend. The quote is just what I imagine its box saying).

Safety insert written after the fact: while I was packing this thing back up for a return, I noticed one place where English was, in fact first: the suffocation warning on an internal bag. What was concerning was that it was in five or six languages, all of them using Roman characters, like English, Spanish, German, French, etc.

The overall form factor of my old joystick and this new one is basically the same: A three axis stick with buttons and a hat switch on top, with some extra buttons and a throttle down below. This new one has a fifth button besides the trigger up top and a total of six down below, which are sure to come in handy with the many, many shortcuts I’m bound to want handy while playing KSP. The new one has some kind of vibration feedback, but I haven’t felt it go off when blowing up rockets. The grip felt like it might be made for smaller hands. One final note that you can’t see form the pictures: there are four suction cups on the bottom instead of those pads that eventually come off.

I started up KSP and started configuring my controls. If the kerbals were whimsical before, now I would describe them as hilarious if I were not the one playing the game. All three main axes were just a little off center, resulting in my rockets listing, toppling, and finally spinning out of control when the reaction wheels only had a single command pod to worry about.

One of the things I remember from playing with a joystick was going into the driver and “playing a small game” to fix it in my “big game.” I now know the words calibration. Included with the PXN Thunder was a small CD containing the driver. I stuck it in my disk drive, made a face at the Chinglish phrase “soulmate to players,” and could not load it because of unsupported characters in the file path.

Undeterred, I pulled the driver file into my downloads folder and removed the offending Chinese characters. Launching the installer, I was presented with a window without an English word in it. Useless to me.

With no way to calibrate, I went back to KSP. My one complaint about the controls menu is that I have to back out all the way to the main menu to access it. Nevertheless, I was only able to keep using my new control scheme by increasing the deadzone. It took a couple days to get the bulk of my controls ready for use. Even then, I decided to wait on setting everything up until I got the new joystick.

I’ve been using the joystick for a couple weeks tops now, and it’s already showing wear. The accessible portion of the throttle has been dying from the middle out. As of writing, I think I can access about the bottom quarter and the top sixth. Additionally, one of the buttons on the base isn’t coming out all the way anymore. I might also point out that that extra button on the top, labeled 2, also doesn’t have anywhere near the click that any of the other buttons have. If anything, it’s been moved to a spot on the base right below one end of the throttle. Is it supposed to do that? I have no clue, but there aren’t any buttons there.

In conclusion: Do not buy this product if you can’t read Chinese. Even if you do, consider getting something that will last longer. You’ll end up saving money in the long run because you aren’t buying as many replacements. Neither the vibration feature, nor the otherwise circular throttle was worth an extra $20. The case is entirely plastic, in some parts it feels extra cheap. If I were given the Steam Controller and this thing and a list of their respective prices, I would have guessed this was the $5 one and the Steam Controller was the $50 one. My only guess is that this product was hit hard by American tariffs on Chinese goods. It is going back.

I would give this a one star out of a possible five.

Final Question: Have you ever bought something with a higher price tag expecting more quality, only to be let down?

The Steam Controller: My First Impressions

Good Morning from my Robotics Lab! This is Shadow_8472, and today, I am reviewing the Steam Controller. For anyone who cares, this post is not sponsored. Let’s get started!

I first heard about the Steam Controller in detail from a YouTube video where the reviewer said it was an amazing controller after you persevere through the configuration process, something most reviewers at the time were not taking the time to do before unloading their frustrations into a review. With that said, this post will only be a report on first impressions, and not a final review.

The moment I saw this supposedly brilliant controller on 90% markdown at $5, two thoughts popped through my head: ‘I might as well see what the fuss was about a few years ago,’ and ‘They must be moving inventory with a discount that steep. (The controller itself is discontinued). After buying, I did a little more research and found that it really doesn’t seem to like running outside Steam, but there is an open-source stand-alone driver for it that sounds like it could be a project.

I don’t have a dedicated gaming budget, so when I’m considering a new game, it needs a lot of replay value or to be culturally important to me in some way.

I’ve only ever owned a GameCube and a Wii, so I’m not well acquainted with any console controllers. I have done zero research into relative prices, so if you were after how it compares to similar products directly, look elsewhere.

Shipping took way longer than I am used to with Amazon. While I waited, I researched a little and found the thing needs Steam open to run correctly. I also found an open-source, stand-alone driver. It’s primarily aimed at Linux, but fiddling with that sounds like an educational experience. I might even like to program it to respond to Morse Code when the on-screen keyboard is up.

The unboxing was a little exciting, but reinforced my expectations to not fall in love with it right away. While the box itself felt like a paper treasure chest, the loot inside did not feel like it was worth any $50. It came with a pair of batteries, a dongle, and a dongle stand. Digging in deeper, I found a cord hidden in a blue sleeve at the bottom of the box, under the “paper foam” support. I had a little chuckle when I read that. Basically, this is a classy box that politely asks you not to throw it away.

Plugging it in, the Steam Controller feels just like a rearranged mouse. Courser control is handled with a circular touchpad on the right, but it drifts. Triggers handle the mouse buttons while the scroll wheel is on the D-touchpad on the left. Don’t expect the D-touchpad to work correctly right away. I found it scrolling the direction I wanted about 64% of the time on the first try, but circling your thumb around the outside seems to work more reliably. I don’t know it it’s learning curve or driver issues. Back and forward are on the underside of the controller on buttons I have no idea what they are called. The bumpers, analog stick, and letter themed buttons each seem to have mappings to keyboard keys.

The on-screen keyboard or “soft keyboard” is accessed by pushing the analogue stick. Each of the two touchpads are then mapped to their hand’s half of the keyboard. there are all sorts of shortcut keys on the different buttons on the controller. I won’t say I’m a huge fan. It is definitely something you can get used to –I am using it for this paragraph, then I am going back– but it isn’t like any keyboard I have ever used before.

My assessment is that the soft keyboard is mainly for when you want to enter short strings of text. Again, it’s something you can get used to, but the multiple ways of doing a few actions mean it’s simultaneously harder to figure everything out, and easier to adjust to a scheme that works for you. It’s faster than an on-screen keyboard with a mouse, but slower –at least without practice– than a smartphone or tablet on-screen keyboard.

In summary, it’s a novel controller with potential, but I am in no position to pass judgement on it. I look forward to learning about hardware drivers with this unit.

Final Question: Have you ever written custom hardware drivers before?